From Perth

So with school holidays looming on the horizon, we were now booked into various campsites.  We left Bremer Bay for Albany.  Probably a bigger town than I had expected and I really quite like it.  We stayed some 11kms out of town on the King River,  the kayak actually making it into the water for a pleasant paddle downstream on a warm afternoon.
We visited some very lovely beaches that are favourites with holiday makers like Emu Point and Middleton Beach.  Then there was Oyster Beach - would be a lovely place to live

                              The lovely Oyster Bay
As we followed the road along the scenic coastal drive we noticed a Navy supply ship heading out of the bay (probably to the missing Malaysian flight search area)

                     Navy Supply ship heading out

           More picturesque beaches around the Albany area - a very busy Port and fishing area

After 3 or 4 nights in Albany we headed West to Walpole, with a few drops of rain but still warm.  We stayed here 3 nights prior to the influx of holiday makers.  A well equipped park but no power - thank goodness for solar panels.

Walpole is home to the Giant Tingle Trees - really amazing how massive these trees are and how they remain standing after their inner base/trunk is burnt out

                             The Giant TINGLE Tree
We spent a day in Denmark some 50 ams away and somewhat like being in the Dandenongs but close to the beach.  It was busy, busy and is obviously a popular holiday spot.  We stopped to watch fisherman fishing off the rocks and they were catching some massive salmon.
Also in the area is a tree-top walk where the suspended sky walk is some 40 metres above ground level. The walk way sways quite a bit in the breeze - a little unnerving!!

                       The tree-top walk
Our last day in Walpole was a little damp so we drove in to the Frankland NP to a very out of the way cafe/herb farm, thinking we'd be the only one's in this 'off the beaten track' place, we were very wrong - it was busy and a tasty lunch is the reason for that.  On the way home we called in at Mandalay Beach and watched the storm clouds gather.

                    The lovely Mandalay Beach
We left Warpole heading to Margaret Rive but we had a night to fill in somewhere so headed to a state forest in Manjimup.  Found a great camp site among the trees where we actually had a campfire and cooked a camp oven (gotta love a camp oven dinner).  'Twas a magical little place and in the hot weather would be fantastic with a great swimming hole.

 Camp area at Manjimup and the firewood was actually chopped and provided by the Rangers - doesn't get better than that!!  We also had a very friendly possum keep coming to visit while we cooked and ate dinner - he kept climbing up on our table but it was too dark for a photo opp.
We left our little camp in the am heading to Margaret River where we stayed on a sheep station.  We were free to camp pretty much anywhere in an open paddock (as we don't need power) and placed ourselves along a small creek - very peaceful.

We had a mixture of weather, warm and sunny and some cloudy and cool.  The South west of WA is largely geologically limestone based.  Over the millions of years many sink holes have appeared and have left some amazing caves which are open to the public.  We toured 3 caves, each very different but quite beautiful - sadly the photos just don't do them justice (my photos anyway).  Of course you can't spend time in MR and not visit a winery or two. We called in to a distillery/cidery (never heard of a cidery before) - I think everyone in the area was there but it was lovely and on the Sunday - the best weather day we called at Cheeky Monkery Brewery for lunch (I think I may have been conned as there was a large TV screen that just happened to be playing AFL).
Eventually we had to leave MR and headed to Fremantle.  We had been there ten years ago; this time it was much busier (guess school hold have something to do with it).  Didn't enjoy the Caravan Park at all but we did drive to Mandurah to see the Harbour - that place has really grown.  Visited the Little Creatures Brewery - maybe you shouldn't revisit places, as on this occasion, there's often disappointment!!  When here ten years ago we tried to go to Rottnest Island but the Ferry pilots were on strike so never got there.  This time we made it and took the bike option so rode around the island (my glutes are still recovering).  Weather is overcast and a little cool so we didn't swim.  Having now visited I can mark it off the 'must do' list.
As I write this we are now in Gwelup, a northern suburb of Perth.  Today we went in to the city wanting to see Kings Park and it was truly lovely.  The weather has now changed and since yesterday we have had quite a lot of heavy showers and strong winds, though at this point in time it's dry and peaceful.  I have to say that the public transport system has been an absolute pleasure to use, easy, everything works, it's user-friendly, on time and no graffiti - Melbourne could certainly learn a lot!!
Heading North on Wednesday - and hopeful the weather there has improved.

Beautiful Bremer Bay

So Esperance managed to turn on lovely weather for our 1 night stop and to date the  mild weather is continuing (different to Melbourne I hear).  Still travelling with Kathy and Bruce we made our way to Munglinup!!  5 star accommodation was found at a small campsite a little off the beaten track………

5 STAR!!!???  Hmmmm….

Minimal water, a drop loo (long drop!!) and of course no power,  mainly used for fishing though they weren't biting.  Walking on the beach the next morning one of the fisherman asked if we'd seen the school of sharks that were feeding just off the shore the day before - on a plentiful supply of salmon.  We hadn't, but he told us one would have been 5 metres long - err maybe!

With our travelling companions we had been discussing our potential problems with accommodation with the looming school holidays and Easter.  Bruce and Kathy were eager to head North sooner rather than later but one of our main objectives of this trip was to see the South West region of WA.  So we bade farewell to B & K and continue the trip by ourselves (along with thousands of other caravanners, tenters etc).  

We headed for Bremer Bay - on the western side of the Fitzgerald National Park. A friend had recommended it as a very picturesque place to visit and she sure was on the money (thanks Trish).

A very quiet little spot, a baker, a general store and a hardware store pretty much constitutes the commercial side of things.  The town hosts 2 caravan parks both of which look absolutely delightful and pre the school hols it's pretty quiet.  The park has given everyone camp sites with good space between neighbours and the facilities are very well maintained.  

                                        Green grass - way better than red dust!!

We decided to stay an extra night to give ourselves chance to organise what we were going to do about accommodation over the Easter/school hols.  Several phone calls later we are happily organised to get us through until after the holidays when demand on camp sites will drastically drop off.  By early afternoon  the sun was being very obliging again and we decided to further investigate the many roads and tracks around Bremer Bay.  This place has an abundance of picturesque shoreline with bays, coves and inlets to explore

A great beach just down the road from the caravan park

                            Called 'Little Boat Harbour' this was down one of the many tracks and provided a                 safe little swimming beach.

Not all of the beaches are safe, quiet little coves though; many are treacherous surf beaches with amazing rips and strong currents

Anyway, all up….as you can see…….

….it was a tough day at the office - but someone had to do it :-)

To Cape Le Grand and back

Yet again I write this from Esperance but we haven't been here the whole time.  On wednesday we left the caravan park in Esperance under slightly grey skies and headed some 65 or so kms to Cape Le Grand National Park.  There's a choice of 2 camping areas, Lucky Bay and Le Grand camp area.  Lucky Bay is a beautiful bay as the name suggests with white silica sand that forms a hard base to drive on and enticing turquoise waters (sunshine permitting!!).  We did a return visit yesterday when the sun was presenting it's very best side and there were quite a few people in swimming (too cold for us though).  The beach was busy with people swimming, cars driving along and three small kangaroos that were being inquisitive and friendly and a coffee cart!!!  The camping area provides probably 20 or so caravan sites, all fairly close together.

                             The kangaroo seemed quite happy to be patted by beachgoers

                               The beach was great to drive along
There are an amazing number of bays and coves to explore in the NP and walking tracks that connect them.  Views along the tracks are truly amazing and unfortunately my photos just don't do it justice but here goes

We however stayed at the Le Grand camping area (shown in this photo taken from high up on the boulders)  Each camp area is sheltered and individual with probably 10-20 metres of bush between and just behind the sand dunes.  Camp kitchen was good and warm showers via solar hot water when available.  We shared a 'double' camp site with Bruce and Kathy

A very short trot over the sand dune provided us with a great view of the water and in the evening a lovely sunset.  Last night much to our surprise there were 2 brumbys enjoying a forage amongst the scrub

they seemed completely unperturbed by our presence.

As we were so close, we took a drive out to Cape Arid NP, where you can also camp.  The camp area is what I would refer to as more basic, less protected and probably 120 ams east of Cape Le Grand.  If total isolation is what you're after this is probably the place to be but definitely not as picturesque overall.

The boys did try some fishing off the rocks and David only managed to land a small snook which he threw back.
Tomorrow we head off again in a Westerly direction after restocking in the morning (no 7 day/week shopping here).  Our aim is to call in and hopefully camp at as many areas as possible along the coast but with school holidays looming in another week here we may have to rethink that plan.
Will update next time we have internet.

The journey to WA

After a delightful stay in Streaky Bay the time came for the journey to continue but not before we checked out the area.  We took ourselves on a trip around Cape Bauer Loop Road.  There are several camping sites along the route but the howling winds that we experienced on our drive was enough to put off even the most adventurous I would think.  With it's 'Whistling rocks' and blowholes it was both spectacularly scenic and treacherous coastline.  The last day we spent attending to some minor maintenance issues, reading and walking then a a very lovely dinner at the hotel.
(I'm writing this from Esperance where I'm finding the internet to be very slow and uploading photos is a painfully slow process so there may be no photos until the next time.)

We passed through Ceduna today and headed for Cactus Bay - apparently very famous for surfing.  It is possible to camp in the area but the March fly attack that besieged us as we got out of the car was horrendous so having ticked Cactus Bay off the 'must see' list we continued on with Fowlers Bay in our sights.

Fowlers Bay gets a little mention on the Nullabor information sheets as a quiet, somewhat out of the way area particularly good for fishing.  Let me tell you - there's not much at Fowlers Bay in the way of buildings, commercial or private.  The road is DUSTY!!  and pretty rough too, probably 50kms in length.  We found out after bumping and rattling along the 50ks that 'the other road' out of town is much better as the delivery truck doesn't use it 3 times a week.  HOWEVER - what Fowler's Bay doesn't have in population it makes up for in personality!!.. The Caravan Park was dusty but the managers very very friendly and provided good facilities and a camp fire nightly which certainly encouraged the campers to gather and chat.  Bordering the town are some amazing sand dunes and great 4WD tracks that enable you to drive along the beach and up and over the dunes.  There are some lovely beaches around the area and some fellow campers had a good catch of leatherjackets, mulloway and Tommy Ruffs.  Left Fowlers after a 2 night stay and I would highly recommend a visit to anyone.

The real journey across the Nullabor was about start.  Close  to the start is the Nullabor roadhouse, we unhooked the caravan left it at the roadhouse and took a 20 km round trip out to the Murrawinjie Caves.  One of the three caves we were able to climb down into, it would have provided much needed respite from the boring sun and heat for the Aborigines (as it did for us), there are some Aboriginal carvings in the cave - difficult to find though (no electricity down there!!)
We continued our travels, passed through quarantine at the border and a very thorough search of car and van it was too having to give up all fresh/raw fruit and veg etc.  We pulled in to several lookout points along the route - sadly these have been reduced to roped off areas.  Last time we crossed, there were several more areas where you could pull off the road to see the view and take photos and mostly with freedom to move around the area a little more.  Shortly after crossing in to WA we pulled in to Eucla for the night.  This is the site of an old Telegraph repeater station.  The limestone building still
has some walls standing but the shifting sand dunes threaten to take over more of the site.  Hard to believe that people lived and worked in such isolation.  The wind blew ferociously through the night and we were happy to move on the next day.

The total journey on Sunday was probably some 350 kms only.  We took quite some detour to visit the Eyre Bird Observatory.  it involved a 30+ km dirt track drive, the last 12 or so ks we had to leave the caravan behind as it was 4WD only and no tow vehicles.  From my perspective theta was the best part of the trip, the sand drift tracks - good fun.  With the weather looking threatening and the March flies attacking we made a hasty retreat.  An overnight stop on the side of the road ready to move on to Esperance the next day.

A long drive to Esperance and glad to finally arrive.  Time for a shower and then shop to restock our fresh food and as I write this after being here one night - it seems the weather has changed and we had rain this morning and some coolish winds.  I trust the sun will come out so that we can see the beautiful beaches that Esperance is famous for in all their glory plus we want to go camp in Cape Le Grand NP which I'm sure will be much better in warmer, sunnier weather.